Decremental Analysis of Plus-size Women: Bodice Drafting and Grading Implications
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The first national meeting of textile and clothing professors took place in Madison, Wisconsin in June 1959. With a mission to advance excellence in education, scholarship and innovation, and their global applications, the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) is a professional and educational association of scholars, educators, and students in the textile, apparel, and merchandising disciplines in higher education.
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Abstract
Fitting issues continue to be a complaint among plus-size consumers of ready-to-wear apparel. The purpose of the study was to: determine the efficacy of a bodice pattern drafting method and grading rules. Plus-size women were recruited for a longitudinal body scanning study. The participants came back for a follow-up scan after 10 pounds of weight-loss. Front and back bodices were drafted for each scan. Eight women had usable scan pairs. A major issue with the drafting system was the standardized location and size of the bust dart. No participants lost weight symmetrically, thus, a simplified grading system is not appropriate. The preliminary results of this study indicate that the assumed standard ease and dart placements suggested in the drafting system was not suitable for drafting plus-size bodices Results produced implications in: pattern drafting, grading, and body scanning. New assumptions which address body shape need to be formulated for plus-sizes.